Manali

Due to some technical difficulties, failing health and visiting parents, the blog has been on an involuntary hiatus. For that, dear readers, I present my humble apology. I'll try to make up for it by being more productive from now on. Anyway, as mentioned in the previous post, the approaching Commonwealth Games were causing rush and pandemonium in the city, and since the university decided to close its doors for a good two weeks, our finnish-scottish-british-iranian-sri lankan-bangladeshi entourage decided to head for a cooler climate and a more chilled atmosphere - this time to the cities of Manali and Shimla on the Himalayas.

We left Delhi around nine in the evening and due to some absent-minded idiocy from your truly, me and my Iranian friend Hamid accidentally bought tickets to the wrong bus which was heading to Shimla, whereas everybody else was heading to Manali first. After a few hours ride, we managed to jump off in the city of Chandigarh and convince the bus drivers that I am an idiot, the drivers kindly let us change our tickets and board the right bus. After the unfortunate incident, the rest of the journey went on without greater hassle.

After several hours of trying to sleep while constantly bouncing up and down and banging my head to the roof of the bus, the sun started to rise and we eventually reached the city of Manali. The surroundings of Delhi are mainly rather flat and dry, mostly fields, but soon after that, as you head north, the landscape starts to take a very different shape. After deboarding the bus we were greeted by a view of majestic mountain ranges covered by tall, ever-verdant deodars and tucked away in this sublime landscape, laid a town strangely reminiscent of a Swiss alpine village and a clear mountain air filled my nostrils. The dust of Delhi started to gradually blow away from my shoulders.

Manali, a town of some 30,000 in the northern state of Himachal Pradesh, is well known as a popular holiday retreat of the nouveau riche of India since the 80's and it's well known for its wide variety of adventure sports, including Yak-skiing, something of a local speciality. The place attracts backpackers from all over the world due to its chilled atmosphere, picturesque landscapes, pleasant climate and, for the drug connoisseurs, Manali Cream, which originates from the Kullu valley nearby.

Apart from the clear mountain air and landscape, equally uplifting was this batch of puppies that greeted us in our hostel.

Even in a fairly touristy place like Manali, fair skin seems to attract attention. This class of schoolchildren ambushed me and Lynsey and having heard that she was from Scotland, the teacher's eyes began to glow. "Please, speak proper English to my pupils! Listen carefully, this is a real British person!" The teacher also seemed to find it important to repeatedly mention that these children all live below the poverty line.

Got electric appliances that need fixing? Thakur's your man!

Another excellent example of Indian entrepreneurship.

As a town, Manali is divided in two parts - New Manali and Old Manali. A two minute rickshaw drive from the busy Mall, where international and Indian franchises have made their way already, takes you to Old Manali, where the essence of hippyish backpackerdom lies. The snakey and narrow road starts climbing upward to a hill where ramshackle country houses, small coffee shops with Israeli backpackers smoking their chillums, hippie clothes vendors, schoolchildren and cows dominate the landscape.

On top of the hill of old Manali stands the Manu temple dedicated to the sage Manu - the creator of human race.

A Sadhu and his dog.

Indian holy men enjoying their Sunday afternoon in the temple yard.

 Since we had arrived in where the Himalayan mountain range begins, it seemed appropriate to trek up to an actual mountain and see some of Manali from a bird's eye view. Thus, the second day we hired a jeep and a driver to take us to a mountain nearby. The aim was to head for a proper snow cap.

The mountain expedition (from left): Prabhavie (Sri Lanka), Navid (Bangladesh), me, Vicki (England), Lynsey (Scotland), Hamid (Iran), Lasith (Sri Lanka), Dan (England) plus taking the photo is Pasanna (Sri Lanka). (Photo: Vicki Loader) 

The road up to the mountain rarely had enough space for two cars and the proximity to the steep drops made our expedition slightly uneasy at times. Nevertheless, our dauntless driver handled his vehicle impressively in a very challenging environment and after a few hours ride, we eventually made it to a base camp of sorts. After a short break it was time to venture forward. After a brief negotiation with the driver (and a suitable bribe), he agreed to take us further up the hill, from where we could try and reach the snow cap.

(Photo: Daniel Gregson)

Eshan (Sri Lanka) capturing the mountain range on the way.

Base camp (Photo:  Vicki Loader)

Climbing up towards the snow cap. Unfortunately the weather was not on our side as it started to snow and we were advised to come down for our own safety. (Photo: Vicki Loader)

Despite not being able to conquer the mountain, we at least managed to enjoy some Himalayan spring water straight from the source. (Photo: Vicki Loader)

On our way down, exhausted by our short trek, we were catered by a fine hillside café run by these gentlemen.
(Photo: Daniel Gregson)

Back in Manali, the town began preparing for the nine day festival Navratri, which is meant for celebrating the beginning of autumn and worshipping the goddess Durga (a goddess of victory of good over evil), who is widely worshipped in the Kullu valley.

Tucked within the haunting cedar forest, on the way to old Manali, lies the Hadimba temple dating back from 1553. The dark pagoda like structure is built around a huge rock. Inside, an altar is build under a slate of rock, so that worshippers have to crawl down to a small pit to show their respects. Unfortunately photography was not allowed.

The temple was also an important site for animal sacrifice. Hadimba was the patron of the Rajas of Kullu valley; during the swearing-in ceremony of the Rajas, they would seek Hadimba's blessings and sacrifice buffaloes in return.

After staying in Manali for a good three days, our company decided to pack our bags, get another jeep and head down south through the green, almost tropical, Kullu valley towards the city of Shimla. (next post)